Day 3 - Edgeware Road

Regaining the Dolphin at 6pm, I snooze until 10. I then walk around Paddington and up to Edgeware Road. This road was begun by the Romans in 47AD. Now it is home to a substantial Arab population, many who migrated here in the 1950s and 70s from Lebanon, Egypt, and Cyprus.

The street is still buzzing - many kafes, koffee shops and korner stores are doing a thriving trade. Many bearded - and unbearded - men smoke hookas in front of shopfronts that double as cafes and Lebanese eateries. Owners were concerned they'd go out of business after the passing of the anti-smoking laws that prevented smoking inside restaurants and bars. Evidently this is not the case. The scent of rose flavoured tobacco wafts down the street - this is hooka central.

Mobile phone dealers offer me cheap calls anywhere in the world. A couple of gypsies beg for money, their hands clasped together. "Please, please sir, some money, please," they beseech as they circle me. I quickly dispense with some more coins - probably about $AU3 worth. Their almost cringeworthy begging ceases and I hurry onward - with their blessings. I'm unsure whether I've done a good or bad thing.

I have a quick hot chocolate at Costas coffee chain, then saunter off to bed.